Onomichi, the City that Time Forgot

With its numerous temples, the hilly town of Onomichi has earnt the nickname of ‘little Kyoto of Setouchi’. Of the 80 original sacred buildings, just 25 remain, all of which can be found along the same path. The 2.5-km long trail winds up the hill that overlooks the town. One of the most curious temples is Saikokuji, with its 2-metre-high pair of sandals nailed to the door as an offering to the gods. At the top of the climb lies the town’s art museum, an architectural gem praised by Tadao Ando himself. Not far from here lies Senko-ji park which is popular in all seasons, in spring for its flowering cherry trees and in autumn for its chrysanthemum festival. Its main attraction, however, is its observation platform, which offers a bird’s-eye view over Seto bay and its surroundings.

To continue the visit, another hike starts from the park and once again showcases the town’s artistic leanings. The literary trail pays homage to Japan’s greatest writers with stones engraved with poems and extracts from novels. Onomichi has always inspired artists thanks to its gentle sense of nostalgia and picturesque charm. Filmmaker Yasujiro Ozu chose the town as the setting for his famous Tokyo Story. German director Wim Wenders visited in 2005, wandering the charming streets where cats stretch out across the doormats of local cafés. The trip resulted in a photographic work entitled Journey to Onomichi.