Celebrating Nature Through Cuisine in ‘Wild Herbs’

‘Times change, and there’s nothing we can do about it. But no matter how the world evolves, humans can never truly live apart from nature. This is a truth that all of us who work with food must carry with us.’ These words from Hisao Nakahigashi conclude his book, Wild Herbs.

Throughout this work, the chef behind Sojiki Nakahigashi (‘vegetal cuisine’), a two-Michelin-starred restaurant, recounts the journey that led him to culinary excellence. His personal narrative weaves together themes of nature and the living world, while also exploring universal truths through the lens of food.

Advocating for Local, Pesticide-Free Agriculture

In Wild Herbs, Hisao Nakahigashi revisits his childhood in the mountains north of Kyoto, where his parents ran a pilgrims’ inn near a temple. He describes the profound connection he developed with the surrounding nature, which not only served as the backdrop to his life but also as his family’s sole source of nourishment. This bond with the living world has remained steadfast, as Nakahigashi continues to roam the mountains for foraging and walks through vegetable gardens in search of inspiration.

A passionate advocate for local, pesticide-free agriculture, Nakahigashi also delves into the essence of what it means for food to be ‘good.’ For him, it’s not just about taste but about creating dishes that nurture the body. ‘It might sound a bit presumptuous, but I dare to say that crafting cuisine that truly benefits the body is more challenging than simply making food that tastes good. How can we create dishes that offer such well-being?’ This question lies at the heart of Wild Herbs, where Nakahigashi shares his musings alongside recipes and tips for better understanding nature. According to him, only with a keen eye and a deep appreciation for nature can one truly harness its best qualities.

Wild Herbs is part of the The Banquet series, which showcases previously untranslated Japanese works centered on cuisine. ‘To tell stories of food is to speak of how we exist in the world,’ explains Ryoko Sekiguchi, author, translator, and director of the collection.

Wild Herbs (2022), a book by Hisao Nakahigashi, published by Éditions Picquier (not currently available in English).