The Heritage of Issey Miyake’s Itajime Shirt

Itajime, an age-old Japanese dyeing technique, involves folding fabric and sandwiching it between wooden boards tightly bound with string. The fabric pressed between the boards is shielded from the dye due to the pressure, while the exposed sections absorb the color. Traces of this method can be found in cloth preserved at Shosoin, the treasure house of Todai-ji Temple in Nara.

By carving patterns into the boards, these designs are transferred onto the fabric. Various patterns emerge depending on how the fabric is folded and the intensity of the dyeing process. The boards are often made from cypress (hinoki) or cedar (sugi), prized for their strength and durability. Innovators like Issey Miyake have embraced these traditional techniques, merging them with modern design to create contemporary fashion masterpieces.

Combining craftsmanship with innovative textile technology

From itajime dyeing to hand-pulled silk batting and airbrushing, Pen visited workshops specialised in these traditional techniques to witness the artisans’ exquisite craftsmanship firsthand.

At a workshop in Kyoto, an artisan binds a polyester shirt tightly between wooden boards using string. The movements are quick and precise, yet mastering itajime dyeing reportedly takes over a decade. This seasoned expert has 42 years of experience in the craft.

Rooted in Issey Miyake’s philosophy of using ‘a single piece of cloth,’ the menswear line IM MEN, launched in 2021, exemplifies meticulous craftsmanship. The Itajime Shirt incorporates Kyoto’s traditional dyeing technique and builds on the same line’s Compact Shirt’s popular design, which folds neatly like a handkerchief along visible creases.

Itajime dyeing involves pressing fabric between two wooden boards to create patterns based on the contrast between dyed and undyed sections. First, the Compact Shirt is folded, and the areas intended to remain undyed are pressed between the boards. The boards are then tightly bound with string, producing a loud squeezing sound as they are secured. The string is wrapped so tightly that it visibly indents the boards, ensuring no dye seeps through during the process.

The shirt is then placed in a kiln for about 90 minutes for dyeing and washing. Wooden boards, rather than plastic, are used for practical reasons: the wood absorbs water during dyeing and expands, tightening the press further. Its flexibility also prevents damage to the fabric.

When the dyeing is complete and the shirt is removed, the pressed sections remain beautifully undyed, creating a striking block-color pattern. The boundaries between the colors are subtly blurred, giving the design an organic, handcrafted quality. This seamless execution is made possible by the Compact Shirt’s flat-fold design, which complements the itajime technique. The combination of Issey Miyake’s innovative textile technology and this traditional craft results in a harmonious and striking final product.

More information about the Itajime Shirt and the IM MEN line can be found on Issey Miyake’s website.