Golden Gai, Navigating Tokyo’s Retro Nightlife Hotspot

Each bar in Golden Gai, in the heart of Shinjuku, can welcome a maximum of between 5 and 30 customers only. Each one differs from its neighbour thanks to its unusual décor, original drinks menu and activities such as karaoke. The space restrictions mean that locals and tourists alike must sit at the bar. This facilitates conversation, which can then last until closing time at 5 a.m.

However, some bars have a strict door policy, letting in only their usual clientele. If an outsider somehow gets in, they will quickly be informed that their presence is unwelcome, by a member of the bar staff who will tell them that the bar is full, even if they are faced with a row of empty seats. This need not signal the end of the night, however, as tourists can continue their quest. Clients are often asked to pay an entrance fee before they order drinks. Four establishments out of this selection of bars particularly stand out for their appealing prices, unique décors and welcoming attitude towards tourists.

Albatross. Somewhere between Baroque and Victorian, the eccentric decoration featuring golden mirrors, candlesticks, deer heads and mirror balls, catches visitors’ attention with its glitzy bric-a-brac vibe. Formerly a brothel, Albatross is one of the most spacious bars in Golden Gai, with two floors and a rooftop terrace.

La Jetée. Named after Chris Marker’s feature film, this bar is an institution for cinema enthusiasts. The owner can wax lyrical about French New Wave films, unless she’s away attending the Cannes Film Festival, as she does every year. It is rumoured that Quentin Tarantino, Francis Ford Coppola and Juliette Binoche head to La Jetée when visiting Tokyo.

Deathmatch in Hell. A pilgrimage site for fans of death metal and horror movies, Deathmatch in Hell pumps out rock music and screens horror movies with free popcorn, providing that customers pay the entrance fee of 666 yen.

Tachibana Shinsatsushitsu. Strange jars of formaldehyde, skeleton models and skulls stand proudly on the bar, in keeping with its medical décor. The waiters, dressed in nurses’ uniforms, serve cocktails with evocative names like the Chounai Senjou, literally ‘colon irrigation’.