The Essence of the Shirt According to Rei Kawakubo

‘COMME des GARÇONS launched its first menswear line in 1978 under the name COMME des GARÇONS HOMME,’ recalls Rei Kawakubo. ‘One of its signature pieces was a white shirt with a crinkled finish, achieved through pre-washing. I believe that’s where the origins of COMME des GARÇONS SHIRT can be found. Later, in order to create a complementary brand suited to the needs of the business world, we launched COMME des GARÇONS SHIRT in 1988—a line dedicated exclusively to shirts.’

While many fashion houses diversify into countless sub-labels, few grant such central importance to a garment as familiar as the shirt. Even today, although jackets and trousers have been added to the lineup, the focus remains. When COMME des GARÇONS SHIRT made its Paris debut at the boutique on Rue Étienne-Marcel, the offering was exclusively shirts. Alongside classic black and white models, Rei Kawakubo introduced shirts in soft shades of yellow, pink, and blue. Unexpected hues that, however, did not diminish the radical nature of the proposition: to build a collection around a single item. A minimalist yet assertive approach, characteristic of the designer’s work.

A Collection Conceived and Crafted in France

COMME des GARÇONS SHIRT has been operated from France since its inception. Following the establishment of a Paris subsidiary in 1982, the brand opened its Rue Étienne-Marcel boutique, with the new line emerging shortly after. The intention was clear: Rei Kawakubo sought to create a label designed and manufactured in France. ‘The country has remarkable expertise in shirt-making and in the quality of its fabrics,’ she explains.

From the beginning, the structure was firmly established: administrative operations were overseen by Adrian Joffe, Kawakubo’s partner, designs were created by Rei Kawakubo in Japan, fabrics sourced from specialist mills in Italy and France, and manufacturing entrusted to a distinguished atelier in the Paris suburbs—a system that remains unchanged today. Though the line has expanded over the years to include trousers, jackets, cardigans, and accessories, all pieces are designed to complement the shirt.

In 1995, pyjama trousers and shirt-jackets were introduced, followed by a full range in 1998, incorporating jackets, knitwear, trousers, and accessories. Around the same time, the brand revisited its shirt designs, notably introducing patchwork motifs—now widely seen, but originally sparked by Rei Kawakubo’s creative vision.
Initially imagined as a French project centred around the shirt, COMME des GARÇONS SHIRT has since grown into a universe of its own.

‘A classic shirt, but with a playful touch—that is COMME des GARÇONS SHIRT. I believe the shirt is a universal garment, crossing both age and gender,’ affirms Rei Kawakubo.

FOREVER, a Line Dedicated to Timeless Pieces

In 2008, the FOREVER line was launched. Unlike the seasonal collections, FOREVER offers only essential, timeless models based on six variations of the fundamental ‘Narrow Classic’ silhouette—a slim, clean-cut shirt.

Among them: the ‘Wide Classic’, with a slightly longer and roomier body while maintaining the same sleeve length; the ‘Very Narrow’, an even more fitted version featuring darts at the back; the ‘Small Button Down’, a long-sleeved shirt with a shorter body; the ‘Narrow Classic Short Sleeve’, a short-sleeved take on the original ‘Narrow Classic’; and the ‘Small Button Down Short Sleeve’, adapting the button-down to a short-sleeve format.

The philosophy remains consistent: to respect the classic spirit of the shirt, while exploring its variations with precision and discipline. The ‘Narrow Classic’ pattern, central to FOREVER, is also a foundation within the broader COMME des GARÇONS SHIRT line.

FOREVER shirts come in solid colours—white, black, blue, grey, pink—and in blue stripes. More recently, pink stripes, patchworks, and gingham checks have been introduced, adding subtle evolutions to the range. Certain knitwear pieces, such as cardigans and sweaters, have also become enduring staples within the collection. Season after season, the FOREVER line continues to expand at a measured pace.

Shirts ‘Close to Bespoke’

‘We mainly use European fabrics made from 100-count two-ply cotton yarn,’ says Rei Kawakubo. ‘We don’t use overlock machines. Instead, we employ flat-felled seams that conceal the raw edges. These meticulous choices have remained constant for nearly forty years. From the outset, manufacturing has been entrusted to the same French atelier, maintaining an unwavering standard of craftsmanship.’

The fabrics are sourced predominantly from Italy and France. Designed to be worn without a tie, the collars are small and structured, opening elegantly when the top button is undone but maintaining their formality when needed. The fine seams enhance both the beauty and durability of each shirt. In particular, the body and sleeves are joined using a rolled seam technique, in which fabric edges are folded inward and stitched to create a clean, single line visible on the outside. Though labour-intensive, this traditional method ensures greater strength and comfort. The entire production process remains rooted in France—just as it was at the beginning. As Rei Kawakubo summarises, FOREVER shirts aim to be ‘as close to bespoke as possible.’

‘I didn’t anticipate the era of the T-shirt,’ she reflects. ‘Nowadays, people wear T-shirts everywhere. That’s precisely why I want to create classic shirts. I hope shirts continue to be worn widely, and I will continue to safeguard their traditional essence.’

For Rei Kawakubo, a man’s wardrobe could consist solely of a shirt and trousers. The shirt is perhaps the garment that most intimately touches the body—a centuries-old staple defined by its flat form and structured collar. Every season, COMME des GARÇONS continues to push the boundaries of fashion with avant-garde collections. Yet, quietly, in parallel, the house remains committed to producing ‘eternal’ shirts, crafted with the utmost care, from fabric selection to stitching. For Rei Kawakubo, these two approaches are not contradictory—they are two facets of the same commitment.

Narrow Classic
The original shape of COMME des GARÇONS SHIRT

Not only for the FOREVER line, but also for the COMME des GARÇONS SHIRT collection as a whole, the base model is the ‘Narrow Classic’ shirt. Featuring pleats on either side of the back, it combines a sharp silhouette with comfort. The cut offers a slightly defined waist, though without an overly pronounced effect—a typically COMME des GARÇONS approach.

Wide Classic
Balanced collar and pockets enhance the boxy silhouette

The ‘Wide Classic’ model shares the same sleeve length as the ‘Narrow Classic’ base, but with a slightly elongated body and broader shoulders to create a boxy silhouette. A single box pleat runs down the center of the back, and the cut is entirely straight, with no waist definition: a true boxy shape. The way the hem flares out slightly lends a relaxed feel. Despite its name, the loose fit remains measured, retaining an inherent elegance. The difference between the ‘Narrow Classic’ and the ‘Wide Classic’ is particularly noticeable from the back. The shirt is crafted from 100% cotton broadcloth made in Italy.