Junya Watanabe, the Art and Science of Clothing

In the late 1990s, Junya Watanabe shook up the fashion world with his “techno-couture” style. he takes a particularly visionary approach to clothing, combining utility fabrics and avant-garde shapes. In 1999, the garments in one of his collections were made from reversible fabrics with a waterproof side, which was tested on the catwalk with artificial rain.

Born in Fukushima in 1961, Junya Watanabe joined the brand Comme des Garçons in 1984 as a pattern maker. He quickly climbed the ranks and was spotted by designer Rei Kawakubo, who took him under her wing. In 1992, he launched a line in his name with the brand and showed a women’s collection in Paris the following year. 2000 saw the advent of his men’s line. The brand Junya Watanabe is still owned by Comme des Garçons.

Technical prowess

The designer’s silhouettes are characterised by their complexity. Junya Watanabe cites Pierre Cardin (also a lover of geometric shapes) and Issey Miyake among his influences. A fan of experimentation, the designer opts for highly elaborate cutting techniques that sometimes demonstrate technical prowess. He also sometimes dedicates an entire collection to one material alone, like in 2001 when he elevated denim to the status of haute couture, an idea that has been emulated many times since.

His pieces are sharp but not devoid of romanticism and poetry and, unlike those of his mentor Rei Kawakubo, Junya Watanabe’s collections often give free rein to joy and colour.

A low-key character in the fashion world, Junya Watanabe willingly disappears behind his creations. He very rarely gives interviews and does not even comply with the usual greeting at the end of runway shows. Nevertheless, his talent places him at the forefront of innovation in clothing, and each of his collections is eagerly anticipated when Fashion Week comes round.

Junya Watanabe’s latest collections can be viewed on the brand’s website.